Over the past few weeks, designers attending men’s fashion week AW23 in Milan and Paris have revealed a glimpse into the upcoming fashion trends this autumn and winter. From cosy cashmere knits to oversized jackets and tailoring, there is something for every fashionable man this winter. Milan has hosted luxury fashion names such as Emporio Armani, Gucci and Brioni, while Paris featured Dior, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent. Fashion experts from T.M. Lewin have observed the standout styles from Milan and Paris’ men’s fashion week (FW) to give you an idea of what to wear during the colder seasons.
Coats and jackets
Following its popularity last season, the shearling jacket is still worth the investment, as this warm and stylish piece continues to trickle into 2023 fashion. Emporio Armani showed a sweeping shearling-lined coat inspired by aviators of the 1930s in their Milan show earlier this month. In keeping with this theme, they also showcased looks featuring bomber jackets, helmets and goggles. Prada had similar ideas as they presented an oversized parka-bomber jacket and duffle coat in their latest collection.
In Paris, however, there was a noticeable theme of plush coats and jackets. Givenchy, Loewe and Bode presented daring plush teddy bear fabrics for their outerwear looks.
Ultimately, these collections tell us one thing: We should expect to see voluminous and hooded plush jackets in camel or purple as a staple statement piece in upcoming AW wardrobes.
Dark grey was the preferred suit colour as Prada opened their show with 11 suits in luxurious charcoal shades. In a slightly less conventional approach, Emporio Armani showcased a full charcoal wool jumpsuit paired with a matching coat.
For the more adventurous dresser, inspiration can be taken from Paris men’s FW to help you stay warm and stand out in the sea of grey. Designer Hed Mayner presented oversized checked pieces with structured shoulders, while Rei Kawakubo sent his models down the runway in monochrome, grey and bright pink tailoring.
As demonstrated at Paris men’s FW, layering pieces are a must-have for all trans-seasonal wardrobes. Models from Paul Smith, Kolor and Namesake were dressed in three or more layers, with some outfits showcasing a daring clash of muted and vibrant patterns.
Oversized, relaxed-looking garments were a popular feature at Milan’s FW, with Gucci presenting oversized pastel tailoring, whilst Prada gave us an oversized parka-bomber jacket with orange lining.
According to an analysis of Google trends data, there was a 215% increase in searches in the UK for ‘oversized men’s’ pieces over the past five years, with a peak in December last year. Oversized pieces are becoming increasingly popular for men who wish to dress with a more relaxed look and feel, and this is expected to carry on into this year’s AW season. Rather than seeking out oversized pieces, why not buy ones you love a few sizes larger than your regular size? This will give you the oversized effect with far more choices in terms of colour, fabric and style. Opting for oversized outerwear also lends itself to the layering trend mentioned above, allowing for multiple garments to be comfortably worn underneath.
The luxurious wool made multiple appearances at Milan men’s FW, notably in the Fendi show that focused on cosy and reversible cashmere pieces. At the same time, Emporio Armani presented cashmere tracksuits and bomber jackets in greige. Cashmere is renowned for its luxuriously soft, scratch-free texture and heat-retaining capabilities and for being lightweight, comfortable, and impeccably stylish. In these colder seasons, a cashmere jumper is the perfect layering piece for every man’s winter wardrobe.
To round off his list of AW23-inspired trends from men’s fashion week, here is what an expert from T.M. Lewin had to say on the importance of finding comfortably stylish pieces that will keep you warm this winter:
“It is clear that multi-hued layers and oversized pieces will be a trend to look out for this autumn and winter season. Whether you wish to stay timeless with greys and neutral colours or be more daring with checks and pinks, you can do so with style, warmth and versatility.”